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Source URL: History of Komezia
The island of Viz (known first as Issa, then as Lissa, and now as Vis) arose from the Adriatic Sea some 30,000 years ago. The Island measures about nine miles long by 4 miles wide, and is situated 35 miles off the mainland of Croatia. The near mainland was formed during the Mesozoic era and Tertiary and Quarternary Periods. The geological history of the island includes Jurassic, and Cretaceous materials. Most of the island is built of dolomite and limestone of the Cretaceous period. The Island is sloped from the northern higher side to the lower southern side. The average temperature of the island is generally two degrees higher in the winter, and two degrees cooler than Split in the summer months. At one time the island was attached to the mainland as evidenced by finds of deer skeletons dating to the Diluvial Period, and that the island was covered with deciduous vegetation.
The island was first settled during the Neolithic period in 3000 B.C.(later Stone age). These early settlers gave the island the name of "Issa"( from the Greek).
The Name "Lissa" comes from the Latin/Roman/Italian and was the official name of the island, as given originally by the Venetians, until the end of Austrian rule. The name was formally changed to "Vis" by the Yugoslavs upon the founding of their independent state after World War I.
The Illyrians settled the island in 2000 B.C. In the 1st millennium B.C. the island was held by the Illyrian Liburnians who formed a small state in the 6th or 5th Century B.C. In 600 B.C. Issa was ruled by Lon. In 397 B.C. the Tyrant of Syracuse (Greeks from Sicily) named "Dionysus the Older" established a Greek colony that became a free "Town- State". This colony minted its own money and flourished for almost 1,000 years. The colony was the headquarters for further Greek expansion along the Dalmatian coast during this 1,000 year period. The Greek colonies founded from Issa included Korcula, Trogir, Stobrec, and Solin. The area called "Gradina" includes all that remains of this important Greek colony in the area. Some sources claim that the island had a population as high as 14,000 people during parts of this period.
Scattered throughout the island are Tumulus-Grave mounds that were utilized for many purposes. They were the result of land clearing efforts to make way for agriculture, but were also put to use as burial mounds, defense purposes, and some say for cultic purposes. They originated between 900 and 400 B.C.
Around 220 B.C. a conflict broke out between Queen Teuta and the Illyrian King Argon, one of whom called upon the Romans for assistance. This caused the Romans to invade the area, and they looked with favor upon the area for the next 2,000 years. In 59 B.C. Caesar was given the responsibility for Illyricum (later named Dalmatia) for a period of five years. His Legate, Numerius Rufus was based in Issa, which indicates that the administration for the region was carried out from this island. From 49 B.C. to 43 B.C. the Romans had a civil war with the result that Lissa became a Roman municipium and became an important trade center in the Adriatic for the Romans. Fragments of two Roman burials from the 3rd century A.D. seem to be the last evidence of Roman occupation of the island.
During the 7th and 8th century the "Croats" came
to Issa and married and intermingled with the resident population of Greek and Roman
origins. The island name eventually was changed to the Croat "Vis" and was first
mentioned as such by the Byzantine Emperor Constantin Porfirogenet (950 A.D.).
In 840 the eleventh Doge of Venice, Pietro Tradonico led a naval expedition to the area around Viz to rid the area of the Slav pirates that had been raiding their merchant ships. In 887 another Doge, named Pietro Candiano I, attempted to control the pirates in the area and lost his life for his troubles. The pirates in the area where able to extract tribute from the Venetians in order to let Venetian shipping pass safely through the area without being plundered.
In 976 Doge Pietro Orseolo balked at paying this tribute and sent a fleet of six Venetian galley across the Adriatic to put an end to this problem. He attacked the Island of Lissa and laid waste to its towns and settlements. He also carried off to Venice several boat loads of prisoners of both sexes to remain as slaves in Venice.
In 997 Lissa was invaded again by the Venetians. The towns were destroyed and the population was enslaved. Some people escaped and settled in the hinterlands of the island, and founded several settlements in the hills, some of which exist to this day.
On May 9, 1000 Doge Orseolo was determined to put a stop once and for all to the pirate problem and launched a naval expedition to the troubled area. As the Venetian fleet sailed into the ports, on the coast and the islands, he was greeted with great ceremony and public homage. The local rulers seemed to submit to the authority of the Doge and willingly agreed to forgo their annual tribute and to let the Venetian merchant fleets pass freely through the area. The brother of one Croatian king gave his son to the Doge, and this son was to later marry the Doge's daughter.
However, the people of the island of Curzola (Korcula) and Lagosta (Lastovo) would have none of this, and resisted the Venetians. As a result of this rebellion, or resistance, the Venetians showed their full might against these people and layed waste to their towns and devastated the country side of these two islands.
The victory of this expedition led to Venetian control of
the area that was to last well into the 18th Century. The word "control" is used
loosely, although the Venetians conquered the area, the local populace did not always
accept total Venetian Rule. The Byzantium Empire was at their back door and the
Dalmatians
knew how to play one side off against the other to ensure a certain level of independence
from each side.
In 1154 the Hvar Diocese was founded to help ensure Venetian control of the island. This diocese included the islands of Brac (Brassa), Hvar (known as Pharos to the Romans or Lessina to the Italians), Lissa (Vis), Lastovo, and Korcula (Curzola). The Benedictines moved their monastery from Bisevo to Saint Nickolas church in Komiza around 1200. The ruins of the old Bisevo monastery are still visible next to the church of St. Sylvester. The relocation of the monastery was due to the threat of attack by the Omis pirates. In 1278 further religious and political posturing resulted in the Chancellor of Hvar becoming the ruling head of Hvar, Brac, and Lissa. At this time the noblemen of Hvar were given properties on Lissa and the local population became tenant farmers to the "Hvar" landlords.
In 1298 the Genoese fleet defeated the Venetian fleet off of the coast of Korcula (Marco Polo, a citizen of Korcula was captured during this battle and taken as a prisoner to Genoa).
In 1358 Venice lost control of Zadar, of which Hvar was a sub-territory. This resulted in the Croatian-Hungarian rule being established over Lissa. In 1409 Ladislav of Naples sold Dalmatia back to Venice, thus re-establishing Venetian Rule over Lissa. The Venetians where not kind to the inhabitants of the area and tightly ruled the area until 1797, when Napolean conquered all Europe.
The interior settlements of the island were destroyed in 1483 by Ferdinand of Naples and again in 1571 by the Turks who invaded the island.
During the 1500's the Uskoks became a very powerful influence in the area. They went on to become the most feared pirates in the Adriatic. Although headquartered in Split they were allied with the people of Lissa, Hvar, and Brac. When the Venetians were at war with the Turks the Uskok pirates allied themselves with Venice and marauded the Turkish fleets. When the pickings became slim the Uskoks would revert to their old ways and attacked and plundered the Venetian merchant ships.
In 1613 Venice, Savoy, Spain and Austria together set out
to once and for all destroy the Uskoks. Their combined fleets attacked the Uskoks harbors,
towns and forts and not only destroyed the buildings, etc; they removed the pirates and
their families to the Croatian interior; where gradually they intermarried with the local
people and lost their identity. With the threat of piracy reduced, the coastal areas
became safer and thus were more easily settled and developed by the inhabitants. The
coastal communities of Kut, Komisa, and Viz were able to grow and prosper with this new
found safety.
In the early 1600's Venice constructed the Castle Mazzolini at the edge of the bay of Komiza. This to allowed for a safer community for the inhabitants of the island. This fortification also allowed a more powerful Venetian influence and control of the trade, taxation, politics, and commercial activities of the town.
The fall of the Venetian Empire (1797), led to control of the island of Lissa by the invading Austrians (1797), then the French (1802) invaded and drove the Austrians from the Island.
After the Napoleonic conquests in Europe (1797) and the inauguration of the "CONTINENTAL PLAN" (to prevent the English from trading with mainland Europe), an English naval detachment was sent into the Adriatic where it seized the island of Lissa (1806) from the French. Now under English control, goods from England flowed steadily into Lissa. From Lissa the goods were smuggled, without to much difficulty, into Croatia and Austria and then into Germany.
The British naval presence in the Adriatic was extensive. The fleet consisted of the following 26 vessels:
Milford Achille Victorious Weazel Redwing Calypso Leopard Amphion* Unite Spartan Mercury Excellent Montagu Alcmene Active Cerberus Acorn Volage Eagle Apollo Havannah Alceste Magnificent Mutine and the Bacchante and the North Cumberland
Further research is planned for the British Maritime Museum in Greenwich England to determine the names of crew members of these vessels. The crew manifests probably will include sailors from Komiza and Viz and other islands in the area.
The British Naval strategy in the Adriatic was to lay waste to all French military and commercial maritime traffic. They also heavily attacked any French shore facilities they could. This included forts, towns, villages, and several major cities. The sieges and battles of Dubrovnick and Kotor are especially noteworthy to military strategists.
To assist them in this plan the British used captured French commercial and naval vessels with British officers and local seamen as crews to assist them in their program. Seamen from throughout the Adriatic came to Lissa to sail on these British ships. The officers and crews of these "Privateers" shared in the value of any cargo that was captured.
As all other European ports were closed to English trade, the smuggled goods were in great demand and very expensive. The citizen of Lissa became very prosperous due to a combination of trade and Naval warfare.
Between 1808 and 1810 the population of Lissa increased threefold:
This smuggling operation and naval interference caused the French fleet, under Napoleon's hand picked Admiral Dubourdieu, to attack the port of Vis when the English fleet was absent. The French attacked and claimed to have burn 60 merchant ships in the harbor of Vis. The British version is 12 vessels lost.
When the English naval forces under Captain Hoste returned to Lissa, the French Admiral retreated to Ancona. The following year the reinforced French forces made another attempt to recapture Lissa for France. Captain Host's squadron although heavily outnumbered, won a decisive victory in which the French Admiral was killed.
FRENCH FLEET: ENGLISH FLEET: UNDER COMMODORE
BERNARD DUBOURDIEUUNDER CAPTAIN HOSTE 11 SHIPS 284 GUNS
2655 MEN
5 SHIPS LOST
220 MEN KILLED
4 SHIPS 156 GUNS
879 MEN
NO SHIPS LOST
50 MEN KILLED
The battle started at 9:00am on March 13, 1811, and by 2:30pm the French fleet (what was left of it) withdrew to Lessina (Hvar).
A part of the town of Vis was known as 'ENGLESKA LUKA' (The
English port). The British harbor and shipyard was a
rather extensive operation that
rivaled the British base at Malta. There is an English Naval cemetery on a hill above the
town. At the far edge of town there are the three white sea forts built by the English.
The British also established a lookout/watch tower and a small community called Queens
City of the island of Svetac (also called San Andrea).
On April 11, 1811 the English decided to formalize their status on the island. They renamed the city of Viz, Port Saint George. They installed a Governor, a constitution, laws of its own and a means to enforce them.
The British built one massive fortress, called Fort Saint George, and 3 smaller forts named Bentinck, Robertson and Wellington. The city of Viz, now called Port Saint George, became the major British base in the Adriatic. The island at the mouth of the harbor was named "Hoste Island" and was also fortified with a round tower, a battery of guns, a small barracks and a signal station.
On November 29, 1811 the British ships Active (Capt. James A. Gordon), Alceste (Capt. Murray Maxwell), and Unite (Capt. E. Chamberlayne) encountered the French Frigates Pauline and Domone escorting the stores ship the Persanne. The French where in transit across the Adriatic and were sighted off of Palagruza. The Domone surrendered, the Pauline escaped to Ancona, but the stores ship Persanne was chased and captured by the Unite. Aboard the Unite where Landsman Antonio Gaso (impressed sailor) and Joseph Cammillieri (Middy).
During the period of 1810-1815 the Russian Navy was active in the Adriatic. The French and Russians had an on- again off-again relationship. The Russians and their Montenegrin allies captured and controlled the Islands of Hvar and Brac. The Russians did not remain long in the Adriatic and left in 1815, never to return as a major power in the area.
In 1815 Napoleon was defeated. The island of Lissa was then handed over, by the British, to the Austrians. The Austrians ruled the land for over 100 Years with a major revolution in 1848, and an almost constant state of minor revolts by the peasants against the nobility and the Government.
The year 1830 brought the beginning of the National Awakening. In 1848 another war involved Venice against Austro-Hungary
In July, 1866, a major Austrian naval battle was fought near Lissa against the Italians. One book claims this was the largest naval battle of the 19th century. Another claims this battle was the last major battle of sailing ships, although there were some steam vessels involved. The battle involved the Italian fleet from Ancona and the Austrian fleet from Pula. The sea battle lasted only 55 minutes and then the Italian fleet withdrew. There is an artists rendition of this battle inside and above the lobby door of the Hotel Bisevo.
On July 16, 1866 the Italian fleet sailed from Ancona, Italy for Lissa. The purpose of the operation was to destroy the Austrian presence and control of the island, land the Italian Marines and claim the island for Italy. This was to be done before the conclusion of the Seven Weeks War between Italy and Prussia against the Austrian Empire.
On the morning of July 18, 1866 the Italian fleet arrived off the port of St. George (Vis) and commenced bombarding the fort and the town. The Italian Admiral Persano also dispatched two vessels with Captain Albini to bombard the town of Manego (now called Milna), on the South East coast of Lissa. Two ships the Terribile and the Varese and another un-named ironclad were sent to Komiza under Captain Vacca to bombard and take Komiza for Italy.
At about 11:00 the Terribile, Varese and the third ship started to fire their cannons at Fort Mantarema above Komiza, but the fort was about 500 feet higher than sea level and the Italian shells could not reach the fort. After two hours of this futile effort, these three ships sailed to Manego to assist their comrades. The ships already at Manego had the same problems due to the height of the fort above the level of the sea, and they too, decided to quit, and then all five returned to the main fleet at St. George.
The fleet that remained at Lissa made a fatal mistake. The Italians had forgotten to cut the telegraph wire from Lissa to Pula (the home port of the Austrian Navy under Tegettoff), near Rijeki. Upon receipt of the wire from the Lissa garrison explaining the Italian arrival and bombardment, Tegettoff wired back to Lissa "Hold out till the fleet can come to you."
The Italian fleet had some success in their bombardments of
St. George's forts. Two small forts at the harbor mouth had their magazine blown up. The
main fort, Fort Madonna which raked the harbor, had its batteries silenced several times.
On the morning of July 19th the Italians renewed their efforts, the Terrible, and the Varese were to renew their bombardment of Komiza. While the main fleet and the Marines where to attack and land at St. Georges. The Italians suffered heavy losses from the shore batteries and the attack failed again.
Early on the morning of July 20, 1866 the Terrible, and the Varese were to again renew their bombardment of Komiza (the third day in a row that Komiza was to be bombarded), while the main fleet at St. George would attempt to land their marines and take the shore batteries.
At 8:00 that morning the Italian lookout ship the Esploratore spotted the Austrian fleet sailing in from the Northeast at some great distance, and rushed to advise the Italian fleet of the pending arrival. The Italians had not planned properly for this naval engagement, and there was much confusion among their officers, which led to their doom. No battle plans were discussed among the Italians, nor any other normal steps taken to plan their attack. Their main warships where in the harbor with no maneuvering room and they were in the process of landing their marines when they got the word of the pending arrival of the Austrian fleet.
The Italians abandoned the landing activities, to battle the soon to arrive Austrian fleet under Tegetthoff. The Italian Admiral Persano now made an additional mistake. As the two fleets where closing for the battle Northeast of Lissa, the Italian admiral transferred his "Flag" from the Re d'Italia to the Affondatore without advising his fleet captains. Admiral Persano's recorded words of "Ecco i pescatore" ("Here come the fishermen") could well be inscribed on his tombstone. The other Italian ships had no idea where to expect fleet commands to come from and they could not fight as a unit but only as separate ships. This was the final error on the part of the Italian Admiral.
Needless to say the Austrians had the situation well under control and annihilated the Italians. The battle started at 11:00 am and by twelve noon the battle was over.
The Italian fleet withdrew to Ancona. Admiral Persano was eventually court-martialled for his errors and lack of leadership, lost his pension and left public service in disgrace. Admiral Tegetthoff became a hero of the Austrian cause and went on the become famous in his own right.
ITALIAN FLEET AUSTRIAN FLEET 33 SHIPS 87,000 TONS
695 GUNS
11,425 MEN
27 SHIPS 54,000 TONS
523 GUNS
7492 MEN (Mostly Dalmatians)
ADMIRAL CONTE CARLO 58YEARS OLD
REAR ADMIRAL BARON PELLIONE DE PERSANO VON TEGETTHOFF 38 YEARS OLD
2 SHIPS LOST 611 KILLED
NO SHIPS LOST 38 KILLED
The Austrian defensive garrison consisted of 1,833 officers and enlisted men stationed on the Island of Lissa.
This battle is noted in almost all naval tactical books with a line or two, alluding to the strategy of ramming vessels rather than the older method of broadsiding.
The Imperial & Royal Austro-Hungarian Navy launched their most modern ship to-date, the "S. M. S. LISSA" in 1869. The LISSA, named in honor of their great victory at Lissa, was classed as a "Central-Battery Armorclad", and was the largest ship in the fleet.
The LISSA had a displacement of 6,680 tons with a speed on 13.3 knots. Her armament consisted of 12 guns of 9.4 inches and 6 guns of 47mm. Her armor consisted on 1.5 inch deck armor, 6.0 inch belt armor and 5.5 inch battery armor.
The LISSA remained the largest of the Austrian navy's ships until the launching of the S.M.S. Custoza of 7,100 tons in 1872, and the launching of the S.M.S. Tegetthoff of 7,500 tons in 1878.
In 1881-82 the Austrians had taken control of Herzegovina. The people there rebelled against the Austrian Army draft.
During the period of 1880-1913 over 500,000 people left Croatia. Under Austrian and Venetian rule the people were no more than Serfs with no rights or privileges. By 1900, in Dalmatia alone, over 600 villages had no drinking water. The Austrian Government took the tax monies that were collected in Dalmatia and spent it in other areas of Austria. Dalmatia's harbors were neglected and fell into ruin. A vine blight called 'PHYLOXERA' ravaged the areas vineyards, which was a major source of the peasants income.
During the first years of World War I, the French Navy was very active in the Mediterranean. On a number of occasions the French fleet went as far north as Pelagosa (Palagruza) and Lissa in the Adriatic, and landed shore parties to destroy the navigational lights and telegraph systems on these two islands.
After Italy joined the War against the Austrians, in July 1914, The Italians occupied the undefended island of Pelagosa (Palagruza) and stationed some small submarines there. The purpose of this was to establish a signal station close to the Austro-Hungarian coast to reconnoiter the activities of the Austrian fleet. Italy would retain control of Palagruza until the settlement of World War II.
On June 19, 1915 the Austrian submarine "U-4" scored a direct torpedo hit on the British light cruiser "Dublin" off of the coast of Albania. This damage put the Dublin out of commission for several months. On July 17, 1915 the "U-4" came upon the Italian flagship, the armored cruiser "Giuseppe Garbaldi", while the flagship was in the process of shelling Ragusa (Dubrovnik). The "U-4" torpedoed and sank the flagship. After this stunning loss the "Allies were never again to strike the coast of Dalmatia".
The "U-4", launched in 1909 had a displacement of 240/300 tons. She had a speed of 12.1 knots on the surface and a speed of 8.7 knots submerged. Her range was 1400(?) miles surfaced and 60 miles submerged.
A sister ship to the "U-4", was the Submarine
"U-5" Commanded by a Lieutenant George von Trapp, of the Von Trapp Family Choir
fame. On April 27, 1915 under Lt. Von Trapp, the "U-5" came upon the armored
French cruiser "Leon Gambetta" which was the flagship of Rear Admiral Senes.
Lt. Von Trapp attacked and sank the "Leon Gambetta" with losses amounting to 684 officers and men of the French navy.
In 1917 The Declaration of Corfu established a federated constitutional monarch under the Karageorevich line of Serbian kings. Alexander, Prince of Serbia accepted the regency of the new government on December 1, 1918 pending the recovery of his ailing father, King Peter I Karageorgevich.
After the settlement of World War I the Italians invaded and occupied the Islands of Vis and Lagosta (Lastovo) and several other areas in Dalmatia. In 1919 Italy seized Fiume(Rijeka), in violation of the treaty of Corfu. The League of Nations finally negotiated the Treaty of Rapallo to return Vis and other portions of the Italian holdings to the new kingdom on November 12, 1920. Italy was allowed to retain Istria, Lagosta, and Palagruza and other important territories.
In November 1920 all territorial disputes had been settled and the provisional government held elections. The Croats wanted a federalist constitution, while the Serbs had other ideas. In January of 1921 a constitution providing for a highly centralized form of government was approved. King Peter of Serbia died in August of that year and his son became King as Alexander I.
The Serbians and their king ruled the area with an iron fist. The Croats struggled against this centralist government to no avail. In June 1928 the Croat leader, Stjepan Radic was assassinated by a Montenegrin Deputy to the parliament. The Croats withdrew their representatives and organized a separatist regime with headquarters in Zagreb. Civil war seemed imminent, but King Alexander suspended the constitution of 1924 and assumed dictatorial control of the government. Alexander further tried to unite the country by abolishing the traditional provinces and changed the name of the country from the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia (Land of the South Slavs).
The actions of King Alexander where very harsh and popular discontent became increasingly frequent throughout the Kingdom. On September 3, 1931 the King proclaimed termination of the dictatorship and instituted a new constitution, but things continued as before. On October 9, 1934 while in France, King Alexander was assassinated by a Macedonian terrorist connected to the Croats. The kings son, still a minor, succeeded to the throne as Peter II. Control of the government was vested in a three person regency headed by Prince Paul, a cousin to the late king. In 1939 the government was final forced into establishing a federalist system to appease the Croats. After Alexander's death Yugoslavia began to move toward closer relations with Hitler's Germany.
It is said that even in the 1920's interest and participation in the Communist party and its philosophy became very attractive to the citizens of Komiza. Considering that they had been ruled, taxed, and conscripted by far distant Dukes, Kings, Tyrants, Emperors, Doges, harsh landlords, and others it is very easy to see their interest in a more benevolent system over which they could have some control.
Remembering also that 59 citizens of Komiza organized a "Brotherhood", with the Bishops permission in 1569, so that the organized community mindset was deeply engrained in the social system for well over 350 years.
In the 1940 Komiza municipal election, 18 councilmen were elected to direct the affairs under the leadership of the Communist Party of Croatia. District committees, Regional committees of the Peoples Liberation and many others local Communist organizations where organized at various towns and hamlets on the island.
There are many plaques, memorial tablets, and monuments throughout the island indicating points where meeting, elections and decision where made under the authority of the Communist party.
When World War II broke out in 1939, Yugoslavia declared its neutrality, but in March of 1941, succumbing to German pressure, the government agreed to adhere to the Tripartite Pact with Germany, Italy, and Japan. The citizens would not stand for this, and a coup d'etat was successful and with Kings Peter's backing the insurgents formed a government dedicated to neutrality.
Retribution by the Germans and Italians was swift and merciless. Germany invaded Yugoslavia in April 1941, and King Peter and the government fled. The high command of the Army surrendered; but retaining their arms, tens of thousands of Yugoslav troops went into hiding, to begin a long guerrilla war against the invaders. Italy assisted the Germans in the invasion of Yugoslavia and secured most of Dalmatia for its own, including the island of Vis. The balance of the country was divided up between Germany, Hungary, and Bulgaria. A pro-fascist puppet state headed by native nationalists and under Italian protection, was formed in Croatia, which received Bosnia.
The local Communist Party Committee of Komiza in 1941 made a decision to attack the invading forces, and this event is recorded on a memorial tablet, located in the Kucic family house in Komiza.
For more than two years after this upheaval great military
and political turmoil prevailed throughout the country. Under Royalist General Draza
Mihajilovic, the Chetnicks waged warfare against the Croatian puppet state. Nationalist
Croats under the auspices of the Ustasa regime retaliated with a campaign of extermination
against the Serbs. Other guerrilla detachments led by Josip Broz (Tito), a Croatian
Communist, campaigned against the invaders and the Croatian Fascists. Initially, General
Mihajilovic was the favorite of the allies to oust the Germans, and was recognized as such
by the government in exile. Various sources claim that from one million to two million
Yugoslav civilians died during the War, this in a country with 15 to 18 million
population.
At times any one group would or could be at war with three different political factions. As Tito's forces won greater parts of the country from the puppet state, they would come in conflict with the Chetnicks. Tito established the Council for National Liberation to extend his operations into other parts of Yugoslavia. By 1943 he had 100,000 soldiers under his command and controlled 40,000 square miles of his homeland. As Tito became more successful in his military victories, General Mihajilovic became less favored by the allies and the government in exile. In late 1943 the American and British forces threw their support to Tito and his forces, which only added to Tito's strength and ability to wage a more effective war and drive out the foreign invaders.
In 1943 Tito escaped a Nazi raid on the mainland that was expressly setup to capture him. He escaped by the skin of his teeth. Tito left the mainland and set up his command center on the Island of Vis, as the People's Liberation Army. The surrender of the Italian Army to the Allies in 1943 resulted in the capture by Tito's forces of all the Italian armament, supplies, and even the surrender of Italian troops within his Croatian sphere. Some of these Italian Troops joined Tito's Partisan army and helped chase the Germany Army from Yogoslavia.
Tito's Headquarters cave and many other buildings from this era are now a museum. Located northwest of Borovik this museum is open to the public.
The Island of Bisevo and then Vis itself became a landing spot for British supplies, troops, arms, and aircraft. These were then reshipped to Tito's forces on the mainland. A small airfield was established by the British in the interior of Vis. This airfield can still be seen today, even though it now is a vineyard. The airport pylons are still in place and a memorial to the brave British Airmen has been erected near what was the center of the airfield. The basement of the church of St. Sylvester on Bisevo was used as a British command center during this period.
As Tito's success's grew, it became more important to the Allied forces to have a single united Yugoslav Government. The British negotiated peace between Tito and the Royal government in exile in the summer of 1944. Tito replaced Mihajilovic as the official head of the Yugoslav Army with the rank of Marshall.
With the oversight of the Soviets, British, and the two Yugoslav governments a deal was struck in Moscow to join the Royal Government and the Council for National Liberation. In March of 1945, various political concessions where made by each side with Marshal Tito as premier and with Communists in other key positions. Much to the surprise of King Peter the monarchy was dissolved in August 1945, and the King remained in exile.
Three different alphabets are used in the area; The Glagolitic, Cyrillic, and Roman
Until 1847 Latin was still the official language of the Croat Parliament.
The greatest monument of classical antiquity in Dalmatia is undoubtedly the retirement palace of Diocletian, the Roman Emperor, he was buried here in 315 A.D., located in the city of Split, the jumping off place to Vis.
The natives of the Dalmatian coast are among the most renown seamen in the Mediterranean. Many of their ship building designs where used by both the Greeks and the Romans in the design and development of their own navies. From America there are several ways to get to Komiza. Croatia Air flies daily from Zagreb to Split. They have one flight per week from Paris to Split, two flights per week fromFrankfurt to Split and three flights per week from Rome toSplit. Because of scheduling constraints, the flights all arrive late in the afternoon at Split, requiring a layover in Split to catch the ferry the next morning to Vis and Komiza.
Once the political situation settles down there probably will be direct air service from America to Split for the pilgrimages to Medugorje.
There is regular ferry service from Ancona on the Italian coast to Split, leaving Ancona around 10:00PM (depending on the season) and arriving at Split at 6:00 AM the following morning. These ferries are more like cruise ships than the ferry you might normally envision, with dining rooms, private cabins, and casinos. Upon arrival in Split it is only a short walk to the connecting ferry to Vis.
During the tourist season there is a direct Hydrofoil
service between Pescara, Italy and the island Vis itself. On Mondays the ferry leaves
Komiza at 7:00AM arriving at Pescara around 10:00AM. The ferry returns to Komiza at 7:00PM
that same night. On Fridays the same schedule is repeated only it starts at Vis goes to
Pescara and returns to Viz. This ferry holds about 150 people and travels about 30 plus
miles per hour. No food or beverage services are available on board.
Vis, Issa, or Lissa is the farthest offshore of the Dalmatian islands, approximately 38 miles offshore. It is a two and one half hour ferry ride from Split to Vis. The major city of the island is Vis, while Komiza about a half hour bus ride (3 trips per day). The peak of the island, Mount Hum, has an elevation of 2,000 feet. The city of Vis has a tourist office which has a German/Croat/English speaking staff. The major hotel in the city of Vis is the "HOTEL ISSA"'. There are two well stocked grocery stores in Vis. There are several Venetian style homes, several castles, some forts and a museum located in the city.
Komiza has one major hotel called "Hotel Bisevo", and a small hotel called the "Antun Borcich Hotel". Boarders are also accepted into private homes, as arranged by the Tourist Office. There is telephone service available at public phones and at the hotel. The Hotel Bisevo is a category "B" hotel, built by the government to attract tourists from Germany and the Mainland of Croatia. They offer room-only plans, as well as room with meal plans. The hotel staff speaks some English and I found them to be very helpful. The rooms are on a par with a Motel Six in American, with full private bathrooms, toilets, phones and most have balconies overlooking the Adriatic and the island of Bisevo.
The Hotel Bisevo has about 200 rooms, a nice dining room, and a T.V. salon. It is only a short walk to town where there are many sidewalk cafes that serve dinner until very late at night. The currency of choice is the German Mark, followed by the Croatian "Kuna", and lastly the American Dollar. There is a money exchange in town. There are no grocery stores in the town as you would know them. There are no tourist shops/facilities to speak of.
There is an art museum in Komiza, but I was not able to get any information on it.
The tour trip to Bisevo, from Komiza leaves about 10 in the morning returning around 6:00 PM. The famous blue cavern called "MODRA SPLIJA" by the people is claimed by all who have been there, as quite an event with viewing of the cavern, picnic lunch and the obligatory swim.
Fishing at Palagruza in the old days: Southwest of Viz
about 42 miles lays Palagruza, a small group of islands or outcropings. Although a very
small area it is quite a fishing spot due to the shallow water and the natural marine
conditions that promote a very nutrient-rich area for the sardines and other fish groups.
The island has a very substantial Lighthouse that is staffed fulltime, there is also a
weather station located on the larger island. The fishing at Palagruza was done in an age
old method. Seasonal fishing area rights were acquired and determined on the basis of who
got there first. To preclude continuing problems a "Regatte" was held each year
to start off the season. All the fishing vessels called "Falkusas", or
"Gajetas" raced to the island on a given day. The race was started by a
cannon shot from the Castle at Komiza. The first arriving boats lay claim to the best
fishing spots and later arriving boats took less productive spots. The Falkusa is a wooden
boat, 26 to 29 feet long and up to 9 feet wide with two sails totaling 1,000 square feet.
If the wind conditions where poor the boats had to be rowed by the men (there are usually
5 men per boat) and it could take up to 13 hours to row to the island. When wind
conditions where good the boats could sail to Palagruza in about five hours. Both gillnets
and purse seines where used to catch the Sardines at Palagruza. The Falkusa crews could
catch and salt, in barrels, about 6 tons or more of Sardines and it could take 20 days to
catch and salt this much fish.
In the better years the fishermen of Palagruza could market 15,000 to 25,000 barrels of sardines.
It is said that one year a long time ago, the fishermen from Hvar came to Palagruza and arrived before the fishermen from Komiza. The Hvar fishermen selected the best fishing spots for themselves and set up a base camp in a cave on Palagruza. One night, evidently a large earthquake hit the island and the mouth of this cave collapsed, closing the entrance with big boulders, rocks and dirt, trapping the Hvar fishermen inside. When the fishermen from Komiza came to the island they heard the Hvar fishing pleading for help. The Komiza men could not save the fishermen from Hvar, and to this day the Hvar fishermen do not come to Palagruza.
The treaty that ended World War One, gave Palagruza to the Italian government, but the fishing rights to Palagruza where guaranteed to the Komiza fishermen for a period of 60 years for no more that 60 fishing boats. During this period
Greek and Italian freighters would call at Komiza to load fresh and salted fish for foreign markets. After World War Two Komiza lost its leading position on the Adriatic as a commercial fishing port, and became a fishing port of local significance only. Some Falkusa's where still in use until the 1950's. The last Falkusa was burnt in Komiza in honor of St. Michelle in 1989 (how sad).
The other commercial activities of the island included wine making, with Vis's quality vineyards yielding 70,000 to 80,000 barrels per year of wine which was in great demand in foreign markets. The distillation of Rosemary oil was another money producing occupation and this could result in 24,000lbs of Rosemary oil in a good year.
The "RESIDUAL MILITARY SENSITIVITY" of the island has changed. With the political changes of 1991, the military has abandoned the island, leaving all the military paraphernalia, equipment and supplies in place. The local people warn everyone not to go onto any military site as there are strong suspicions that the various camps, caves, buildings and other sensitive areas may have been booby trapped. BE WARNED!!!!!!!
The Benedictine monastery of Saint Nicholas (also called Muster, which means monastery, although not used as such in recent times) sits on a small hill overlooking Komiza. The site was probably selected for the purpose of defending the bay and fields, and with no strong wind and many wells, it was an ideal spot. It is the burial place for the dead of Komiza. It was built on the remains of a pre-Romanesque church in the 13th century. Although there is an inscription " A.D. DCCCL" (850 A. D.) over an arch in the church. That type of date recording was not used until the 12th Century. It is assumed that the inscription was placed there in the 12th Century with the knowledge that the original structure occupying the site was build in the 850 B. C. era, although no records, information or proof exist of the 850 A.D. structure.
There is an old family story that a unnamed Pope was traveling from Istanbul (Constantinople) back to Ravena or Venice and was ship-wrecked on the shore below where the church now stands. The story goes on that as a tribute to God for saving him, the Pope built the first church in that spot.
Although the island was known to the Christians from
Salona, who needed the area to escape during the 7th Century, we find no old Christian
ruins from the 5th-8th Centuries, although the surrounding islands of Lastovo,
Hvar, Bisevo, and Korcula do contain Christian ruins from that era.
The Benedictines came to Komiza from Bisevo in the 12th Century to this more defendable spot, as their original monastery in Bisevo was subject to continuous pirate attacks.
During the 15th and 16th Centuries the church was redone in the late Gothic and Renaissance manner. In the 17th Century the shrine was enlarged and the interior of the church redone in the Borogue manner. The church graveyard seems to have only recent burials, while I understand that the interior contains family crypts that contain remains going back centuries.
Saint Mary's church "pirate" is located at the far North end of town at the end of the small pebble beach, just north of the Hotel Bisevo. The original church was built in the early 1500's while the two wings were added in the 17th Century. One story claims that the "pirate" designation comes from the theft of the painting of "St. Mary" in the 18th Century. They have Mass in the church regularly, and the church organ is played by the local Sister. The alter is absolutely beautiful and is a sight to see. There is a baptistry outside in the front of the church. Apparently all wedding and baptisms are held at this church while funerals are held at the Monastery.
Otoc Svetac (often called St Andrea, after the name of the church on the Island) has one very small church. This Church, called Saint Andrea, was built sometime in the middle of the 18th Century. There are some graves located within the church but even in the older days the church was in very bad condition. When the Priest from Hvar would come there to say Mass he had the people make a tent out of fishing nets, so he could hold Mass for the inhabitants. A Bishop Gally had noticed the graves and remains of the once domed church and he had it renovated at some point in time.
There is the church of Saint Blaise on top of the mountain north of Komiza. An annual trek is made there in February to celebrate St. Blaise's "Blessing of the Throats" rites.
The church of Our Lady of Plaint (17th Century) sits alongside the road between Vis and Komiza. It is a little round church with several small windows and a very sturdy door. I believe it is used on a regular basis, but when and how I do not know. It looks more like a watch tower than a church.
Saint George Church dates from the 13-14th century and is the church of the patron of the town of Vis. The church sits at the entrance to the port of Vis.
The Church of Our Lady of the Cave was originally built in
the 16th century and was reconstructed and enlarged several times. It has a 17th century
organ which is still in use.
The Church and Monastery of Saint Jeronim was built in the 16th century upon the foundations and stone of an antique theater. The church sits on a peninsula that juts out to the middle of the harbor of Vis.
Church of Saint Cyprian and Justine is within the city of Vis proper, and was built in 1742.
There is a Church on the island of Bisevo, called Saint Sylvester. The original small church was built in the 11th Century by Ivan Gaudijev Grlic of Split under the authority of Prince Berigoja, a Benedictine from the Island of Tremeti. A monastery was later founded near the church by the Benedictines. The church was rebuilt in the 14th Century in the gothic style. This church is supposedly the oldest church in all the off-shore islands. There is also a small "Chappela" about 500 yards south-southwest from the church. This Chapel was built out as an extension from a small grotto on the side of the hill. The Church itself was used by the British during World War II as a command center.
The Austrians built fortress Baterija in the 1830's. This fortress is now used as a museum and houses an archaeological collection. In the summer time concerts are held in the museum.
